Profile

austin_dern: Inspired by Krazy Kat, of kourse. (Default)
austin_dern

June 2025

S M T W T F S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 91011121314
15161718192021
22232425262728
2930     

Custom Text

Most Popular Tags

Conneaut Lake Park: I have given you the setting. And the experience of riding the things in it. And given some sense of the gift shop's offerings, as well as the things people offer the park. And also about the fires that have done so much damage to the poor park. I must finish now, and return to posts that are at least a tolerable length or hidden behind cuts.

So, the park's Trustees are cagey, at least, about whether people should donate money to the people who're spearheading the reconstruction of the fire-ravaged parts of Conneaut Lake Park. This sounds initially odd, particularly for a park that's been so dependent on the support of the community's volunteers to keep going at all. That then goes to suggest that there's tension between factions trying to control the park. But that's also simple and understandable, so, that doesn't seem to quite fit what's happened with the management of Conneaut Lake Park. I'm attempting to understand the whole structure myself, and [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger probably has a better idea of it (if nothing else she better understands the way parks are usually run), so please accept this as a rough approximation of how the park's gotten to where it is now. The story, of course, features a key role for a man with a shady past and a pile of gold coins.

The generic history of a local park like this runs something like: picnic grounds in the late 19th/early 20th century, putting in some roller coasters and other attractions in the 20's, hard-hit by the Depression and the War, perhaps expanding in the 50s with Baby Boomers needing places to bring their kids that's cheaper than Disneyland, and then a nasty decline in the 60s and 70s when either the family that's owned it for decades runs out of money and shuts it, or when they stagger on until Six Flags can buy the park and then shut it. As best I can tell from Wikipedia and from CLP Junction's fan-created history of the park, Conneaut Lake Park more or less fit that script at least through the 70s, possibly into the 80s when they added the Splash City Waterpark. Conneaut Lake Park sold off 19 of the carousel horses in 1989, replacing them with Carousel Works horses fresh from Mansfield (implying they were probably among the first horse purchasers for that company, incidentally).

But selling off the carousel is typically the three-year warning that a park is going to close. In 1990 the park tried to shift to being gated, with an admission fee (and parking fees; we certainly didn't pay for parking in 2013), which is the sort of thing most of the last free-admission parks were doing around that time, but here, it apparently was badly received. (Also, the summers of 1990 and 1991 were lousy park weather.) Through the early 90s the park kept selling off rides, and by 1995 it was bankrupt. It didn't open that season, and probably any other park would have thrown in the towel at that point, the way Detroit's Boblo Island did.

However ... then came in a new owner, a convicted felon named Gary Harris who despite convictions for rape, receiving stolen property, trafficking in forged money orders, and being called ``Doctor Death'' by a grand jury witness, bought the park. According to the Washington (PA) Observer-Recorder of 3 July 1996, he ``put up $100,000 in gold coins as a good faith deposit'', which is exactly the way to prove your good intentions while you're appealing your sentence of 27 months in prison and $155,000 in fines and back taxes, which were then under appeal, and are facing new charges of attempted tax evasion, falsifying corporate tax returns, obstruction of justice, bank and bankruptcy fraud, and racketeering. The Observer-Recorder goes on to quote Michelle Ott, then running the Sunset View Motel, as saying, ``It kind of raises your eyebrows a little bit. But look at the casinos in New Jersey. They're run as successful businesses, but who are they owned by?'', which to me proves that whatever it is that makes Conneaut Lake Park so, was already evident by then. And tu quoque to you too, Ms Ott. (The article also states that Conneaut Lake Park opened in 1892 as a Pennsylvanian version of the Chautauqua Institute, and that the park boasted of launching the career of Perry Como. This delights me almost as much as the gold coins do.)

Come 1997, Harris, on his way to jail, donated the park to the people of northwestern Pennsylvania, creating a trust which would, if Conneaut Lake Park existed in a fully sane world, have put it into a happy if staid senescence, becoming something like Rye Playland, a park that could exist indefinitely and stably except for those moments when sufficiently many people get outraged that the county collects taxes even though it owns an amusement park. It didn't turn out that way. Possibly there are unwise aspects to hitching your cash-strapped amusement park to a four-time felon convicted of money fraud. On the other hand, what rational process would have kept the park going, then?

Harris would, according to Wikipedia, go on to state that while he gave the land to the people of northwestern Pennsylvania, he kept for himself a 99-year lease on the rides and attractions, which makes for a bit of a problem. An article in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette of 16 February 2003, warning that Conneaut Lake Park might be out of comebacks, reports that after serving his 27-month sentence, Harris denied the had donated the park to the people anyway.

According to the Post-Gazette of 21 July 2004, among other things, Harris diverted about $400,000 of park revenues to himself, and failed to pay taxes; the tax bill would keep growing and staggering on, and it's probably the biggest non-fire-based threat Conneaut Lake Park faces right now: it's got a debt of about $900,000, between the unpaid taxes and interest. I don't know that this is all traceable back to Harris's involvement, but according to the February 2003 article at that point it owed $280,000 in back taxes and it's difficult to suppose they're not connected.

But the park carried on, reopening in 1997 with five rides purchased from the Old Indiana Fun Park. I mention this because somehow the Conneaut Lake Park weirdness stretched out to Old Indiana Fun Park: it had opened in 1983 as the ``Middle Country Renaissance Festival'' and grew into a picnic area and family amusement center. The park closed in 1997, after the killing of one and paralyzing of another passenger on the miniature train ride, a ride which had passed two state inspections in the previous three months although the safety inspector admitted he wasn't qualified to inspect amusement rides. The train had derailed at least 79 times in the two months before the fatal accident and managed as many as fifteen derailments in a single day. Old Indiana Fun Park owners admitted negligence but denied knowing about the ride's condition.

The rest of the park was purchased by, who else, Six Flags. (Well, Premier Parks, as the corporate overlords were known.) Six Flags used the park for years as a kind of resting site for rides they were planning to move from one park to another, without ever actually opening it. So if you just looked at the list of roller coasters in the park for, say, 2002, it looks like a thrill park; it just didn't have any patrons or operators or anything.

But Conneaut Lake Park took away some of the rides of this weird little park, and this would seem to coincide with the most recent little era of new rides and attractions. Still, the existing heavy debt load and the burden of lawsuits in Harris's wake would be challenging for any park to manage. As best I can tell, the trustees for the park weren't up to it. As late as 2005, according to the Beaver County Times, the whole board hoped to resign after concluding there was no way for the park to operate; a judge refused to let them quit in favor of a three-to-five member board. The article quotes the trustee's attorney as saying the park had `no computerized program to prepare financial reports'', which seems bizarre, considering that among other things it was 2005, a time when computers were almost able to manage the work of tracking finances for multimillion-dollar enterprises.

At this point I feel myself lost in a swamp of financial matters. As best I can make out the current situation, there are several parties each with their pieces of Conneaut Lake Park: the trustees who own the park and owe quite some debt on it; Adams Amusements which runs the attractions; the Conneaut Lake Hotel, which hasn't burned in an important way since 1943; Park Restoration LLC, which held a lease --- and which had insured --- the beach club and dockside which burned in August; and there's also another group which runs the Halloween ``Ghost Lake'' feature.

As best I can make out the squabbling, too, it's all parties who have a real desire to see the park continue and thrive. It'd have to; you couldn't have stuck with this park for the quarter-century it's just had if you didn't want it to thrive. But it's also gotten divided up in ways that almost ensure people work at cross-purposes: Adams, for example, appears (appears! I don't know enough of this at first hand) to put all the revenues it gets into keeping the rides functioning, which, you can certainly understand. The Hotel, meanwhile, appears (again, as best I understand it) to want the park to spend more money on repairing the facades and pavement and getting the whole burned-out postapocalyptic feel taken care of. Park Restoration, I believe, was responsible for things like the Journey/John Mellencamp tribute bands which bring flocks of bikers to the park on Sundays; but, the Hotel (if I have this right) feels that flocks of bikers coming to the park on Sundays also scares off families and kids and all that. You can see how this problem starts intractable and gets only worse from there. Park Restoration had insurance on its structures, possibly a half million dollars in payout, but they want the land of their complex and the hotel separated into new parcels independent of the main park. This would allow them, presumably, to survive if the park went under entirely; but by subdividing the land, it also makes further partition thinkable. No matter; the county, with a big unpaid tax bill, might demand the money first.

It's hard to say exactly how bad the finances of the park are; as the local press points out --- with a vehemence and determination that reminds me of nothing quite so much as the determination with which golden-age-of-pulp stories had the newspaper editors determined to bring down the Lone Wolf because sure he's been cracking all Inspector Farraday's toughest cases for fifteen years now but he still used to be a jewel thief and he'll surely show his true self again --- that the trustees don't make very lavish financial reports. Actually, the claim tends to run more like ``they don't publish any financial information'', which seems like a much sterner claim. Fan forums, such as at clpjunction.com, are only a little enlightening, as so much of the discussion of park finances turns into squabbling over what exactly is meant by a ``corporation'' and other such fights between people who aren't actually experts in finance law arguing about what finance law means. As best I can tell, the park's total debts seem on the order of three to five million, while (per the 2005 Beaver County Times article above) annual revenues are on the order of two million. It seems like with some lucky breaks and some forgiveness this ought to be manageable, if tough.

Crawford County has slapped the park with what would seem like a death blow: a tax sale, if the outstanding $900,000 debt isn't settled or renegotiated. The deadline is about a year off, and, well. It's obvious that this would kill any normal park. But so would the at least three bankruptcies I've been able to find out about, so would the fiasco over the lease, so would the shut-down years or the years when they had to borrow money from local car dealerships to open at all. In 2013, if the clpjunction.com forum commenters are right, they managed to open without needing a loan.

I don't see a rational way out of this doom. But it's not a park that lives by rational ways. It's had a quarter-century of living some sort of financial or managerial opera. It gets discovered by people who go in not knowing what they might see, and come away still not knowing what they had seen but knowing that they loved it, as just this past week Susan Glaser of the Cleveland Plain Dealer did. Maybe there's some millionaire looking for a way to be kind to a community who'll read this and be inspired. Maybe it'll become a Kickstarter amusement park. Maybe the laws of probability will contort yet again and find the park some way to stay afloat.

Maybe someone will pop in who happens to have $950,000 in gold coins and, I hope, a pure spirit.

Trivia: For the Tennessee Centennial Exposition, Fred Thompson produced the Giant Seesaw, a sort of dual crane, with a 75-foot-high fulcrum, which lifted alternating viewing cars up 150 feet in the air. Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register.

Currently Reading: Weeds: In Defence of Nature's Most Unloved Plants, Richard Mabey.

Conneaut Lake Park: You've read about the grounds. And about what the rides are like. And, I hope, what the gift shop is like, as well as what the volunteers supporting the park are like.

So, the major and catastrophic fire. That broke out a couple days after we visited, and after the TV show-based renovation and repairing was under way, and before the Hostile Hostel attraction was opened. Its cause, at least as of now, hasn't been identified. But it burned down the Beach Club and Dockside, destroying with it one of the Blue Streak's trains --- how many spares can they have left, considering particularly how old the cars they run are? --- and the Fascination machines the park had, presumably, been keeping in the hopes of someday reopening the parlor. It also destroyed the venue where the Journey/John Mellencamp cover band had performed, the spot where bikers from western Pennsylvania gathered each Sunday to be at the park. Their band for the following Sunda --- a Bon Jovi tribute group --- took to Facebook immediately to promise that they would so perform, and they apparently did, and bands have been playing since then where they're able to find space. Also a wedding got relocated at the last minute. Imagine getting married at an amusement park; then imagine having the wedding venue go in flames in the stress-filled days immediately before. Seaside Heights and Seaside Park sell T-shirts about being ``Jersey Strong'' in the face of superstorm and fire; Conneaut Lake Park, apparently, just accepts it as part of life, and carries on without much comment.

When I first heard about the fire I thought, ``that's it. They're done'', which is probably a thought many people had. They probably had that thought too in February 2008, when the Dreamland Ballroom was destroyed in a major fire (this after a season when the park's rides closed in early August, and a year when they didn't reopen). That, if I haven't mixed up disasters, was arson, and was discovered by someone who lived in a house on the park's property. The park has city streets that run through it, just blockaded off, and we thought that was a legacy of the park's old integration with the city. The park was integrated into the city until much more recently than we imagined, only in 1990 attempting to put up a gate and close off access from these side roads. It's still not very separated.

Probably many people also thought, ``that's it. They're done'' in April of 2008, when the former bowling alley --- the structure I had thought might have been an abandoned entryway, one with a big facade and ruin behind it and in the distance a truck trailer and past that people's homes --- collapsed. (Maybe it was purely aesthetic: two days after the bowling alley collapsed the people making The Road started filming scenes at the park. I said it had a postapocalyptic look, didn't I? If Wikipedia's to be believed (I haven't seen the movie) the film includes rubble from the ballroom and bowling alley, the then-closed Hotel Conneaut, and the boardwalk. (And yet it's odd the park would be featured in a pretty high-profile mainstream movie; it feels more like the setting for something indie, or maybe a weird lightly satiric thing, or a single-camera sitcom.)

Likely they also thought ``that's it. They're done'' when a fire --- I think this one also arson, possibly the same arsonist behind the destruction of the ballroom --- destroyed the bathrooms that had been in the Kiddieland portion of the park. We didn't know when we were there that there had been bathrooms there; there was just the one set of bathrooms which, for the park's size, seemed about adequate. But it makes sense there should have been such there, and looking back I ... can't think of where they might have been. Perhaps the building was cleaned away; perhaps it just faded into the background considering there was so much that needed repair. I don't know. My empathy fails me in thinking about most arsonists, but, to set the children's bathroom on fire?

But this year's fire seems particularly crushing: it destroyed a restaurant, two bars, and the concert space, which all seem like essential parts of drawing enough paying customers to keep the park going. How could they possibly carry on without them, even if the Bon Jovi tribute band is happy to play on the lawn and the Hotel Conneaut will cover for wedding reservations?

Well, there's the power of volunteers, of course. The park has defied all these death-blows --- and many more --- through the power of its volunteers. Its charmingly disorganized web site, which wants for only that animated ``under construction'' gif to be perfectly of its time lists four distinct volunteer projects, although some of them look like they might be out of date. No matter; they probably still need the help in keeping Blue Streak restored.

So the mystery then becomes: why did the park's trustees post a notice that while it was ``wonderful'' that so many people were volunteering time and effort and money to the rebuilding fundraisers, they had grave reservations about all of this, in a notice vaguely warning that the fundraising was initiated without their involvement and that there weren't any details then, or likely to come out soon, about how the funds would be distributed, for what, to whom? The fire was an obvious problem; but how would people coming together to save the park be a new source of imminent disaster?

Trivia: Luna Park's ``Fire and Sword'' spectacle recreated the fall of Adrianople in the First Balkan War (1912-13). Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register.

Currently Reading: Artery of Fire, Thomas N Scortia.

PS: Reading the Comics, September 21, 2013, a fresh round of mathematics-themed comic strips.

So returning to the Conneaut Lake Park, and what might be called the after-trip report. You've seen what the grounds are like, and then what the ride experience was like, and what I think the gift shop reveals about the park and how it can carry on. Now, some bigger context, some things we discovered afterwards, after we left the park and tried to quite understand what we had seen.

The day after our visit, a group of volunteers working with a TV production team --- creating a pilot a new show they hope to sell to the Travel Channel, in which they go to distressed amusement parks and fix up what they can --- started work. The objective was to fix up as much as they could, including the Devil's Den, as well as to build a new attraction. The park's official web site was vague about what the attraction would be, because it was to be revealed only at the end of the repair and renovation week, but, obviously, it couldn't be something big and the terming of it as an attraction suggested that it wasn't a ride, or at least not exactly that.

One target of the work was the Devil's Den, which we learned had been renamed in 1992 as Dr. Moriarity's Wild Ride. Now we had an explanation for the ghost appearance of ``Dr.'s'' in the sign which read ``Featuring the      Infamous GUM WALL!!''; the ride was changed back from Dr Moriarity's in 2001. This also suggests things about how long the park goes without fully repainting rides, given its late challenges.

This did mean, though, that we might have been on this dark ride in its last operating day before getting new livery. If we'd not had the lucky accidents that brought us to the park, we'd have missed it obviously; but if the accidents bringing us there had been even a little different --- say, starting the next week --- we'd have had a very different experience. (In either direction, before or after, really; for example, apparently the Tumble Bug had only been put back into service three weeks before we visited.)

Volunteers and donated time contribute a lot to keeping Conneaut Lake Park intact. The park has almost become a volunteer project, really: the Blue Streak, for example, was standing but not operating for a couple of years, until the American Coaster Enthusiasts, and local park fans, and the help of a Pepsi Refresh Grant (which [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger had voted for back a couple years ago when there was public voting for what should get the grants, without ever quite knowing whether they had gotten it) put it into working shape. A couple years ago a volunteer project restored the railway to functioning (and the Tumble Bug too), and let the park have a partial season. The start of this month, volunteers --- with the support of a local contractor --- were to go about fixing some of the many fences in need of repair, and there's work under way to repaint the Blue Streak roller coaster. The 14th and 15th was a ``Bring Your Own Mulch'' landscaping event.

I'm not sure that the Blue Streak needs significant structural repair, though. Apparently, at one point in its volunteer-restoration project, considerable woodworking repair was done by local groups of Amish carpenters. You can likely hear the Internet giggling over that one. It'd left me with a grin at how wonderfully quirkily odd was the chain of events that would bring the park to that. And, really, giggling people on the Internet, if I had to choose a group purely on stereotype grounds, ``Amish carpenters'' is about the best group I could think of to complete the task of ``fix a huge wooden structure so it stays fixed on its own''.

Oh, that MetamorphoSign contest I mentioned the other day, along with talking about the sign put together for Blue Streak's 75th anniversary? That turns out to have been (according to Conneaut Lake Park Junction, one of the park's fan sites) the result of winning an online vote scheme. The park got a $10,000 sign makeover thanks to its online fanbase.

I can't think of any park that draws such determined and ongoing support from its community. Oh, everyone rallied to Casino Pier and to FunTown Pier after they were smashed in Superstorm Sandy, but that could be sated by buying ``Restore the Shore'' bumper sticker magnets, and it hasn't been a lingering mess. (Also, last November, everyone in the area had their own problems to consider.) Pittsburgh would probably riot if Kennywood announced it couldn't open for the year, and there's wide swaths of northern Ohio and southern Michigan that would have a reaction if Cedar Point were to tear down its Blue Streak. But to put out, with a straight face, a call for fifty volunteers each bringing their own bag of mulch and a roll of landscaping fabric, maybe get a truckload of dirt if they could, and have a reasonable expectation of people turning out? That's an incredible act of community.

They hope to do more, as ever. For the Halloween events --- and I have to admit it's not hard to imagine the park being its own Halloween makeover without changing anything --- they're hoping, between the actual management and the Halloween event (called Ghost Lake) management and the volunteers, to put together what they hope will be the longest (and scariest) Halloween attraction in the world --- more than 160 live creatures, and a (somehow) 13-level park, according to its Ghost Lake web site, something projected to take two hours to walk through. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger and I thought it might be something as simple as letting people work up their courage to walk over the scary abandoned bridge that seems to lead to the jungle primeval. That bridge does appear in the photo montage for Ghost Lake.

The new attraction, by the way, that the folks making that show on spec for the Travel Channel unveiled? It's called the Hostile Hostel, a walk-through haunted house (based apparently on a Romanian hotel), and it opened with great fanfare on the 3rd of August, alongside the other improvements made by the show's swirling of activity. I have to expect Travel Channel to pick up, if not the series, at the very least this particular episode, because of the astounding feat of taking the park as it was, and summoning its reserves of volunteers to do something incredible, and their installing the new attraction.

Oh, and also because of the major and catastrophic fire. There's more to say about that.

Trivia: George Tilyou's Steeplechase Park had the ``Blow-hole Theater'', in which a lecherous dwarf would tease and direct women into a room where still jets of air shot up from the floor, exposing their legs and undergarments. Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register. (Register notes this ``verged on the indecent end'' of middle-class behavior.

Currently Reading: The Magazine Of Fantasy & Science Fiction, September/October 2013, Editor Gordon van Geller.

Continuing on Conneaut Lake Park, after setting out what the grounds are like, and after describing our ride experiences at the park, then:

The Log Cabin Gift Shop leads off the midway, the side of it that isn't boarded up or burned out or abandoned, and is at the intersection of the roads that run through the park, just a bit east of the ticket booth. The stock looked that little bit worn and that little bit not-quite-enough that we'd really expected it to be. There were some of the things to expect at a park, T-shirts and shot glasses and dolls and postcards, and if the merchandise didn't cover the walls all the way to the ceiling, well, would you expect them to in the circumstances? At the cash register was the bored-looking clerk, a young woman who bore a striking resemblance in look and in projected attitude to April Ludgate, Aubrey Plaza's character on Parks and Recreation, who kind of acknowledged that we'd entered but not that this was much to get worked up about.

[livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger had been picking up Christmas ornaments at all the parks we could --- that Tuscora Park was closed and that we had so little time in Idlewild kept her from a perfect streak --- and she of course searched for the best she could find. I didn't have anything in mind, but after being so impressed with the obvious work and care and love the park's supporters had I knew I had to buy something respectable to help keep the place afloat. And that's why we looked over everything, finding, first, the way that the merchandise wasn't all amusement park stuff. Oh, much of it was, but, then, some of it was just ... dollar store stuff. I don't think they actually had off-brand shampoos or miniature hot dog grillers, but they'd have fit right into the tone of the place.

They had flags. Conneaut Lake Park had flags to fly around the park, as many parks do --- ones with their logo, something we figure has to date from the late 70s given its abstracted view of the rippling waves and roller coaster and parklands behind it; and ones with the Blue Streak 75th Anniversary logo, designed if I'm reading correctly a park sign (``the result of devoted fans of Conneaut Lake Park and the Metamorpho Sign Contest by FastSigns'') the result of a design contest that brought out some really good work from someone --- but they didn't just fly them. They sold them. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger said, it's not many parks sell their flags. ``Nope,'' said Conneaut April Ludgate, while shaking her head. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger would spend time debating which flag to buy (and I thought she might get them both), but I knew at that point we were going to get at least one of them. We could fly one, I pointed out, when we went on amusement park trips, the way Buckingham Palace flies different flags when the Queen is or isn't in residence. We don't have a flagpole we could use for this. We'll get one.

Now I have to jump to the Cleveland area. Geauga Lake was a little picnic park, going back to 1887 --- an era when many local amusement parks got started, usually as picnic parks --- and over the decades it evolved into a small Cleveland-area amusement park. In the mid-90s they were bought out by Premier Parks, the chain which bought out Six Flags in 1998. Two years after that buyout and under the Six Flags banner, Geauga Lake was rebranded as Six Flags Ohio, then merged with Seaworld Ohio which for some reason existed (it was just across the lake) and rebranded as Six Flags World of Adventure. Six Flags tried to turn the park into a big thrill park, a rival to Sandusky's Cedar Point, by stuffing it full of roller coasters and flat rides in almost no time, wrecking the park's character and alienating the park's audience. Six Flags then, caught in the contraction of the theme park industry, sold the park to, of course, Cedar Fair, owners of Cedar Point. Cedar Fair restored the Geauga Lake name, turned the Seaworld site into a water park, and in a couple years and caught by the same theme park contraction closed down the venerable amusement park (though the water park continues). Many of the rides went to other parks; one of the roller coasters has a home in Michigan's Adventure, for example.

[livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger had been to Geauga Lake, twice, once in the immediate aftermath of Six Flags's sale to Cedar Fair --- when the park name was changed and all the Six Flags licensing was hastily covered up --- and another time before it closed in 2007, a closure suspected but not announced until the last, fall, weekends.

I explain all this so you understand why we were both gobsmacked to find Geauga Lake merchandise in the Conneaut Lake Park gift shop.

We couldn't resist. We asked Conneaut April Ludgate why there was the Geauga Lake stuff. She explained: the last day that Geauga Lake was open, this guy went to the gift shops and bought them all out, and he's been selling it on consignment.

I want to point out how utterly wonderful, how perfect, an explanation that is: it's concise, clear, and seems to quite well answer the question until you realize that it actually doesn't explain anything. How did someone in 2007 figure he might make his fortune by grabbing all the Geauga Lake mugs and magnets he could for later sale, after the park was closed, and the market would be people who were upset they missed their chance for a last nostalgic bit of swag? How did he come to figure that a flailing amusement park in western Pennsylvania would be a spot to sell this off? Where else has gotten this zombie merchandise? Who at Conneaut Lake Park figured they needed stock for a dead park next state over? These are all questions that I cannot answer. The perfection of the explanation would be tarnished if I tried to actually understand the explanation further.

Conneaut April Ludgate came to life when hearing about what we'd been doing and how we ran across the park and how impressed we were that it was kept alive. I'm not sure that she actually said she was working there gratis, but it was the impression I got, or at least that she was there because she knew the park needed her. I may be reading into it, but I think I'm right anyway.

I wanted to get something, of course, yet felt constrained by my need to get something at least a bit useful and I already have enough keychains. They had music CDs, though, recordings from ``Artie'' their band organ. That struck me as perfect: it's tied distinctively to the park --- even to the day, since we saw the organ being brought back to life --- and I'd certainly listen to it, since among other things Roller Coaster Tycoon 3 lets you import music from CDs and actual music from a real band organ would fit that right.

The CDs were in a box of jewel cases bought from Staples --- the generic Staples brand of jewel cases --- with home-printed covers and, we'd see, labels that were also printed out on inkjet and looked to be pressed on by hand. The cover didn't really fit inside the jewel case exactly. When we got home [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger would spend some time trying to get it to fit, speculating that the folded paper was just inserted wrongly, or something like that, to fit neatly in the case. It wasn't, or at least it's not something simple that's wrong. The cover sheet just doesn't quite fit the jewel case, somehow, and while [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger was able with effort to get its fit improved, made a little less loose, it wasn't a very great improvement for the time it took, and she understood now why whoever burned the CDs just let them in the slightly misfit configuration they started in.

The CD --- well, it wasn't in the Gracenote database for album information, you probably expected. So I did my part, reading the track titles off the cover and doing my best to verify that they actually were listed correctly. I know such songs as ``Let Me Call You Sweetheart'' or ``Rum and Coca-Cola'' or ``Pennsylvania Polka'', of course, but ``When I Grow Too Old To Dream'' was a new one on me. Looking up its heartbreaking lyrics proved they had the song listed correctly, though.

The CD is spiritually akin to those neat professional albums you can buy, where some perfectly-tuned Wurlitzer in near acoustic perfection plays out ``How're You Gonna Keep Them Down On The Farm Now That They've Seen Paris'' or ``American Patrol''. But it's homemade, rougher, more scrappy. It's clearly the recording made by holding a microphone up to the actual ``Artie'' while it plays, and the organ isn't so carefully tuned, and the mix isn't perfectly balanced so everything is perfectly clear. I'm not positive that you can't make out ambient park noise during the quieter stretches. But, boy, it sounds the way a real actual calliope sounds in a real amusement park. You can feel the the solidity of the thing when you're there. I'm not sure I could have made a righter purchase for me.

Conneaut April Ludgate thanked us for buying this stuff, [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger buying more than I did, and we kind of hoped that we weren't the ones whose purchase decided whether she'd get any paycheck this week. She was also good enough to tell us how to pronounce the park's name --- just say ``Connie Otter'', like the mascot who we only saw in the form of plywood figure with the nose cutout is named, and skip the final syllable. Their online store --- which is not, as I grimly quipped when [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger discovered it, hosted by Angelfire --- has a second volume of CDs. I'm not sure whether I want to buy it online and be certain of it, or whether I want to have some pending business that demands I return to the park in person, if I can.

By the doorway were some faded postcards, not of Conneaut Lake but of other parks, such as Paramount Parks's King's Island or Paramount's Carowinds. Paramount sold its amusement parks to Cedar Fair in 2006, and the parks stopped calling themselves Paramount's anything in 2007. I suspect the hidden hand of whatever mad genius figured to sell fridge magnets for Geauga Lake's Steel Venom roller coaster in western Pennsylvania a half-decade on.

Conneaut April Ludgate is perhaps the type case for the employees. They might cast a facade of boredom or surliness or that slight creepy otherworldliness that gets attributed to carnival workers, but it's a facade. Perhaps it's because the park has been beaten down so long: anyone who was there just for the paycheck has to have given up and gone on to places that can provide paychecks. To still be at the park, I think, it has to have woven itself into your heart, and become something that you want to nurse through its desperate condition. The result is that the park staff is a delightful surprise, with --- at least for us, that day --- possibly the best attitude of any park employees we'd seen. They're not running a Tilt-a-Whirl. They're inviting you into a secret place, and if they look wary it's because it isn't a place that's obviously lovable, and they want to know you won't laugh at them for having fallen in love.

And we were in love.

And we would learn more about the park.

Trivia: In September 1910 Fred Thompson announced three models of personal consumer airplanes, including the ``Runabout'', the least expensive, to be sold for 1,750. (Little came of this, partly from Luna Park fires and Thompson's subsequent bankruptcy.) Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register.

Currently Reading: Asimov's Science Fiction, October/November 2013, Editor Shiela Williams.

PS: On Moritz Pasch, a mathematician you likely didn't ever hear of before, but who did work that was important and that you understand.

To continue the report on Conneaut Lake Park:

When we arrived the park was quiet, which maybe sensibly would be ominous. But it was quiet because the park had just opened, and rides were coming into service as ride operators arrived and as patrons came in and as there was need for them to run. Conneaut Lake Park would never, never, be a packed and busy place bustling like Kennywood, but it would get a pleasant group attending, people who went in expecting to enjoy themselves --- I think the type case for this was a woman telling her grandkid that she used to go to this park when her grandkid's mother was a girl --- and this would be the impression we took from the place. It looks like an abandoned amusement park that someone has snuck into and turned on, but, it is a platform for those attending it. If you wish to have a good time, you will. This is how we did. This is what makes visiting Conneaut Lake Park not another exercise in disaster tourism.

Conneaut Lake Park had an antique carousel. It kind of still does. The park has been wracked for --- for ages now --- by shortages of money, and an antique carousel is a cash reserve. They've been selling off the animals, or so we hope as the idea they've been lost to vandalism is too heart-crushing to believe. Apparently there are only five of the original animals left, with the rest replaced by fiberglass or modern replicas, ones familiar to use from Carousel Works rides. Some of them are out of service, including at least one horse turned around and with a purple plush rabbit draped across its seat so no one is tempted to ride it. We guessed about which ones were originals, and I believe guessed wrong.

The carousel had a brass ring dispenser. It wasn't running; it wasn't even extended. I couldn't say whether this is because the dispenser was broken, or because they didn't have staff to operate it --- they'd need someone else to push the ring out --- or whether they just don't have enough brass and steel rings to run it anymore. But in the northwest of Pennsylvania and this looking-glass Knoebels, there we might have grabbed at a brass ring again. It'd be selfish to ask for that; we had a wondrous enough time and couldn't demand more.

They had a band organ, too, a 1924 Artizan ``XA'' model called Artie, and which we'd learn was a rare --- almost unique --- example of its kind. (If I understand comments correctly, most of the survivors of this type were converted to Wurlitzer rolls; Conneaut Lake Park's, of course, has been preserved in its original configuration, possibly by there not being the money to improve it out of its historic identity.) It wasn't running, and we didn't much expect that it would because, after all, this is a park that can't replace its light bulbs. To fix a tetchy, near-unique band organ? Impossible!

And yet Conneaut Lake Park is an impossible land. As we rode the carousel our first time, an engineer (if they specialize) and the ride operator started to fiddle with the organ. They took it off and did something or other --- well, we were in the midst of the ride, how could we tell what they were doing? --- and as our carousel ride came to a stop, the ancient organ came to life and played a few untuned notes. We applauded. The band organ stayed working, the rest of the day that we were there.

This impossible, impoverished, postapocalyptic park in the midst of nowhere has people who care enough, who are determined enough, who find themselves able, to keep their band organ working, and to repair it when it fails. No amusement park in existence in the real world has any excuse to not have its band organ working. Cedar Fair? Six Flags? You are plutocrats, with more money and ability and resources falling through the holes in your pockets --- which you don't have --- than this park has ever had, and they have shown you up. In a few precious moments of tinkering we learned something of the incredible nature of Conneaut Lake Park, and we were made lovers of this poor little park. It is cushioned from the real world by people who will keep ``Artie'' working.

This is one of the secrets of the park, we would learn. They have put their resources, such as they are, into keeping working what they possibly can. The park may be shabby, but, good heavens, it works. The people caring for Conneaut Lake Park work magic, the kind you see in mawkish Christmas specials of mediocre sitcoms, where that gruff old chap down the street leaves a few hints that he might actually be Santa Claus, having once again given up his duties at the North Pole so he could putter around western Pennsylvania and show the cynical youth of today there are so enchanted places.

The thing which brought us to the park was the Blue Streak, unrelated to Cedar Point's much younger park. This wooden roller coaster, 75 years old (officially, as of the week before), was an American Coaster Enthusiasts Landmark, of historic importance, one of the couple survivors of roller coaster designer Edward Vettel's work, with historic trains and operating in the traditional manner, without seatbelts or seat dividers, with a single-position lap bar. You can ride it and touch its construction in 1938. ACE helped restore the roller coaster, saving it from decrepitude in the late 90s, and did so again within the past decade. ACE may be something of a fanboy organization, with the social problems that implies in many of its members, but its dedication to the preservation and restoration of antiques earns it considerable good karma.

[livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger is an ACE member, of course --- she was even showing that off to people in the traditional way, by wearing a coaster T-shirt, Casino Pier's ``Rebuilding Family Memories'' one celebrating that stricken pier's determination to recover from catastrophe --- and I might as well be. We also saw two more on the Blue Streak, in the back seat. They're obvious, in that they just look like they might be roller coaster fanboys. One was wearing an ACE t-shirt, which admittedly makes it easier. The other was wearing a shirt for Adams Entertainment, the company which runs the rides at Conneaut Lake Park.

The guy in the ACE t-shirt, we'd learn, was ``Backseat Bill'', a famous in-the-right-circles coaster enthusiast who, as the name suggests, insists on riding on the back seat of everything. The ride operator told us who he was; he was spending the day riding and re-riding and re-re-riding this classic coaster. (The week before, for its birthday, was a celebration with people having free ride time for hours on the thing.) [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger and I were tempted to talk to them --- after all, how often do you get to talk with a fellow enthusiast, especially over a hidden treasure like this? --- but we also worried, you know, fanboys can be dangerous to strike up conversations with, and fears of a conversation we'd spend hours trying to escape scared us away from talking further. Perhaps we missed an incredible conversation. It would've been lost in the wonder of the day anyway.

The station is hand-operated, with the big levers to brake and release trains as roller coasters had in the good old days before electronic controls. We were delighted watching the ride operator handle these levers, some of them far enough apart they were clearly meant to be run by two people at once. The operator handled that by stretching, hard, and pushing with his foot and his arms at separate levers. Isn't that wonderful? The station also has, at its exit --- where the ride starts, and the train passes into the initial tunnel that takes it to the lift hill --- a painting of the whole ride. We would learn that in days gone by the ride had lights which would show the position of the train as it went up and down, out and back. The lights, of course, don't function, but wow, what a great idea.

We got the front seat --- we actually asked if it was all right to wait for the front seat, as if the park were that rulebound, and the operator didn't actually laugh at us for our naïveté --- and ... well. The ride starts with a passage through a tunnel, meant to make the gap between the launch station and the lift hill more interesting than the simple S turn it actually is. An intact tunnel is an easy way to make a stretch like this a bit more interesting. This is not an intact tunnel.

The tunnel's just a wooden shed, and the park hasn't been able to maintain things that aren't strictly functional like sheds for ages. The boards look rotted, paint peeling --- or peeled --- with holes worn out or punched out, casting shafts of light that made the tunnel darker than true darkness would be. This pleasantly creepy effect is spoiled by the holes in the roof, patched over by garbage bags, some bulging from rainwater past. We would wonder what the Halloween haunted-house version of the ride would be, and whether it could be any different from this.

Roller coasters beside trees aren't new, not to us --- Idlewild has its Rollo Coaster built into the treescape, after all --- but here again, Conneaut Lake was exceptional. The trees had grown with only little tending and trimming away from the ride, with branches that reach so much closer to the track than we'd seen on any other ride. The ride operator teased folks going out that they weren't allowed to grab the tree branches, and sure, rationally, we weren't ever near enough to actually grab them. But it's a very close thing. The effect is like riding an abandoned roller coaster, half-reclaimed by the woods, but it keeps going.

The roller coaster doesn't feel decrepit, and actually it was surprisingly smooth. Later research would tell us that the Blue Streak is running smoother this year than it has in ages, the result of all these attempts by its lovers to heal it. Six Flags, which disgraced itself this season by tearing down the Rolling Thunder roller coaster --- not even 35 years old --- on the pretext that it was too old and rough to be maintainable or enjoyable, has further reason to be ashamed. The ride, again, may be shabby, but it is neat shabby.

It's also a great roller coaster, at least the front half, if you ride in the front seat. It feels ready to fly out of control, something that the poor condition of the tunnel and the scary looks of what's behind probably reinforce, at least on the way out; I have to admit the return leg, a couple of hills bouncing about, isn't very exciting, at least from the front seat. We wouldn't have it changed, though.

From the roller coaster you can get good views of the miniature golf course, and of the miniature railroad. That wasn't working the day we visited, and we'd learn that it's (again) an antique, and (again) one the park takes great pride in, and we're sorry to have missed it and can only dream of being able to visit again a day that it is running.

The most unexpected treasure in the park was the Tumble Bug, the sibling of Kennywood's Turtle ride. These were once, in the 1920s, fairly common rides, and we liked the one we rode at Kennywood. Conneaut Lake Park's is its much poorer relation. The cars don't have the turtle shells that decorate Kennywood's, and they also don't have the insect shells that were the other major decorative option. They don't have any shells, in fact, just the bare metal cups of the cars, sitting like ugly UFO's on the oscillating track.

The rearmost of the cars was roped off, and the ride attendant, looking a bit surly, or worn down at least, told us that it wasn't ``working''. The cars on a Tumble Bug are just cars in a train; the whole thing moves or it doesn't. How could one car in it not be working, when all it has to do is be carried along?

The surliness of the ride operator I believe to be part of an act, because he told the riders that ``the object of the game is to ride it with your hands up'', not grabbing the center wheel for stability. We hadn't heard this at Kennywood; there, they recommend holding on to the center wheel. We were game for this. Our ride operator was tricking us.

See, as the Tumble Bug tumbles, if you aren't holding on to the center, then, you'll slide, backward as the car goes up the hill and forward as it goes down, and it can get to going pretty darned quick. And the acceleration will be complicated, too, since (for example) once the majority of the train is over the hill, all the cars will start accelerating, even those in back. This is the sort of ``cracking the whip'' effect that makes the back seat in some roller coasters a better ride than the front seat is, and explains probably why the backmost car was closed off. It's probably too wild a ride, at the Tumble Bug's speed and rough tracking, even for people who'll go along with the puckish ride operator's suggestion and accept being tossed forward and back on the waves of the turtle ride.

And it was a fantastic ride, vastly more than we imagined, much more thrilling than that at Kennywood. Much more dangerous, at least in feeling. When have you ever heard a ride operator tell you to not hold the thing that keeps you from sliding out of control through your car?

Conneaut Lake Park's Tumble Bug and Kennywood's Turtle are the only surviving examples of the (adult) version of this ride known to still exist. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger and I have ridden all the world's racing derbies; we've now also ridden all the surviving tumble bugs.

The dark ride that had caught our eye was ``The Devil's Den'', a wonderful old style sort of thing with the little cars that run into a building for various stunts and props, duck back outside for a steep dip --- and this still had it; many of this sort of ride have had the dip replaced with something not quite so steep and thus less prone to breaking down or whiplashing passengers --- and back inside for some more haunted-house mischief. It had a lovely facade, with paintings of bricks and witches in loopholes and flames behind the exterior dip, doors with eyes staring at people caught up in a boa constrictor's coils, that sort of thing. Beneath the sign with the ride's name is another wooden sign, dangling beneath, promising that this is a ride ``Featuring the      Infamous GUM WALL!!''. Within the excessive space between `the' and `Infamous' was a ``Dr.'s'', painted over but not quite invisible. Yet.

[livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger's research would find the ride was apparently installed about 1970, and the interior with fluorescent-painted animals and demons and such looks like it might be from about then. At least the style is strikingly late-60s kids fantasy in form. It might be original paint; it might be just faithful retouching of the original. Neither seems perfectly satisfactory an explanation, considering how worn the building is, how the letters in ``The Devil's Den'' were chipped and flaking off to show older layers of paint.

Ah, but the Gum Wall. It was alluded to at the lone ticket booth, the one offering gumballs for its use. What it was, [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger expected would disgust me. It doesn't quite do that. Actually, I kind of admire it because I suspect it's a brilliant bit of social engineering. As the ride starts, the car goes past a wall that's quite easily in arm's reach on the left. The signs ask people to stick their gum on the wall. Many have, and the wall is littered with the dried remains of past chewing. Since the ride is in better shape than any sense suggests, perhaps this Gum Wall, encouraging people to ``vandalize'' the ride right away, diverts the impulse bored kids might have to damage the heart of the ride. If so, it's brilliant. It certainly suggests a ride that's more intimately bound to the community.

We didn't have explained what the Dr.'s might mean, or why it might be painted out. We would learn.

These were the different rides we went on, the things that we couldn't ride at least as well at other parks --- Tilt-a-Whirls are great, but how different could they be at another park? Well, in hindsight, perhaps very different; almost surely the Conneaut Lake Park version would be more wild, less constrained, closer to feeling out of control. We would get information that their bumper car ride --- down to seven functioning cars --- is an incredible power ride, with cars that really can smash one another. For any other park we would think this was just hyperbole. Here, perhaps it's literally so. But we couldn't spend all our time here.

But we did go for second rides on a few things, on the carousel --- with the music playing throughout, in the tinny, poorly tuned notes of ``Arty'', and wonderful so. It's not a fast carousel --- few are --- but it works, and it has the band organ to accompany it.

This brings to mind, though, that the Kiddieland carousel is a smaller affair, two little horses abreast, which nevertheless manages to be pretty decently decorated, with leaf-and-vine patterns and lights that, mostly, light. That one turns slowly, as the ride operator walks around the outside and pushes the Kiddieland carousel by one pole. We don't know whether this was a temporary expedient because the people who could fix the motors were fixing the band organs and other things, or whether that's just the normal state because kids small enough to fit these animals could be content with a carousel moving at walking speed.

And we returned to the Blue Streak for another ride. ``Backseat Bill'' was good enough to yield his seat so that we might try it from the back, a position the ride operator said was the best. (He took a more front-seat ride.) The operator told us --- and everyone --- that for the best ride we should try holding our hands up as long as possible. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger and I aren't in the habit of riding with our arms up, but, we could give it a try. If we were wise, we'd remember the prank the Tumble Bug operator played.

Blue Streak, it turns out, is a backseat roller coaster, with the ride from the back much better than the front at giving the illusion of being out of control, especially on the return leg with its many little hops. Also, that first hill feels wildly out of control as the back seat of the train drops. Frighteningly so. Stunningly so. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger's hands grabbed the lap bar partway through the first drop. I was more resolute, but still grabbed onto the bar just after the end of the drop, as the car started barrelling up again, and I clung to it as if I feared gravity was going to suddenly switch off on me.

We staggered off, hooting and giddy from just how much wonder there was in these rides.

As we exited the park --- we hated to go, but we did have to get to Waldameer; we had souvenirs, and the trip to the gift shop is its own entry no less wondrous as you might expect --- we passed something I thought a bit curious: a couple of television production-type people, women making notes on clipboards and scribbling on tablets, guys walking around in camera harnesses, bunches of people standing around test cycles of the Paratrooper ride, that sort of thing. I speculated that maybe they were putting together a commercial, and that maybe we'd be barely visible in the background. I now know the story is more complicated than that.

And, as we walked back to the car, we saw someone taking the letters off the sign out front, the one that read on one side the park's hours (it's closed Tuesdays, but during this summer was open the rest of the week, 1 to 9). As whoever it was made off with letters describing the wristband sales, I quipped that I hoped he worked for the park, and a bit of me wonders if we can be sure he did.

We were awestruck with all of this; we felt like we were swimming, after our few little hours there.

There is more. This park's story is not exhausted yet. Not nearly.

Trivia: The ``Witching Waves'' amusement ride, opened in Coney Island's Luna Park in 1908 --- a flexible metal floor with reciprocating levers making it wave, propelling a car --- was invented by Theophilus Van Kannel, who also invented the revolving door. Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register.

Currently Reading: The Visioneers: How A Group Of Elite Scientists Pursued Space Colonies, Nanotechnology, and a Limitless Future, W Patrick McCray.

Habakkuk was a prophet, credited with the Book of Habakkuk, which in an early verse expresses the desire that the reader ``be utterly amazed, for I am going to do something in your days that you would not believe, even if you were told''. I have such a Habakkuk for you, an amusement park stunning and unimaginable, a place whose existence I am still trying to quite understand even after being there, and photographing it inadequately --- nothing could be quite adequate --- and learning more about it in the days since that made the experience all the more amazing. A legendary amusement park is, in its soul, a bit of an impossible place. Conneaut Lake Park is impossible. It deserves to be legendary. Locally it must be; this should be world-renowned for its nature.

I am something of an exaggerator. I can't resist it. I love the form of the logical argument with the absurd premises. So I understand that some readers will figure I'm simply clowning around. I'm not. To the best of my ability I am writing without hyperbole, exaggeration, or comic absurdity of my part. It is simply that Conneaut Lake Park is really like this. (It's why also I'm not hiding this text behind a cut, because I want people to see this.)

[livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger and I got there by absurd accident, the sort of thing that can't be rationally planned. Perhaps it is like entering Oz or Narnia, and can't be rationally discovered by outsiders. We had figured to start our tour of Pennsylvania parks with Waldameer, on a Monday, and learned at the last minute that this park was closed Mondays. Who closes an amusement park on Mondays in July? A Pennsylvania park does. So we reset it for the following Sunday, after we visited Idlewild, near Pittsburgh. When [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger discovered, in looking up how long one needed to see Waldameer properly, that we would be able to divert to Conneaut Lake Park easily, we did. If the trip had started as we planned it --- or if we'd planned to start at Waldameer on a Sunday instead of Monday --- we'd never have gone: it would have been absurd to divert to Conneaut Lake Park on the way from Lansing to Waldameer, and we would never have imagined leaving Waldameer early to visit some little park she had barely heard of and I never had. It was only that great stroke of misfortune that made it thinkable we might turn up there.

We got to the park, about two hours north of metro Pittsburgh and an hour short of Waldameer, just about 1 pm, its scheduled opening hour. The park has a lovely 60s-vintage sign giving its name, over the grass parking lot which had a sparse population of cars in front. The sign, guarding an abandoned little toll booth, read, ``WELCOME: Blue Streak Birthday Bash Saturday July 20 2013''. We were a week late to celebrate the 75th birthday of their wooden coaster, the Blue Streak. We could see the outer extent of the Blue Streak from the road, and the parking lot, and as we got out of the car heard the rattling of its lift chain. [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger ran delighted toward the sign, crying out how wonderful this was, which a bystander agreed with.

This is the setting, as we found it. We did some riding of things in the course of discovering it; but I wanted the reader to understand the whole of the place.

They had a bunch of banners celebrating Blue Streak's 75th anniversary, the sort of thing any proud amusement park might offer. We went past the nice Welcome To Conneaut Lake Park signs and to the entrance gates, which were ... dusty, battered. Abandoned. A little shabby. Signs in the windows said to buy tickets inside the park.

Through the gates the park was ... well, it had the asphalt walkways and grassy surroundings we're used to in this sort of thing. Past white picket fences, not all intact, were a couple of familiar and usual rides --- a Tilt-a-Whirl (with a decayed sign reading ``Sorry Out Of Order'' across the entry stairs), another Flying Scooters (we had thought this a rare ride, when we first found one in Hershey Park years ago), a ... couple empty spots where flat rides had been taken out. We turned down the ``Park Avenue'', down streets more cracked and shabbily paved, along lawns not so tidily kept, with some mud and puddles and sand and rocks merging space from grass to roadway, and went past the light blue ``No Trespassing'' barricades, behind a family which was walking towards the main midway.

Water parks, the amusement park world has discovered (as has the hotel world), are money factories, as sure a way to keep your attraction running as capitalism can possibly offer. We walked past the remains of a water park, dry, dirty, abandoned. How could you not sustain a water park? Conneaut Lake Park is on a lake, as the name suggests, but so is Cedar Point, so is Waldameer, so is Great Adventure for that matter, and Casino Pier is even on an ocean and all sustain (or are sustained by) a water park adjacent.

Our age finds it easy to throw around the term ``postapocalyptic''. I do not use it lightly. The park has a postapocalyptic feel, as if the end had come to Western Civilization, and the survivors had decided that survival required not just food and fire and books and beds, but also the soul-succor of a carnival. Imagine that they kept what they had, the rides and attractions and buildings, and chose to keep them going despite the impossibility of getting replacements, of being able to repave streets or fix cracked and uneven sidewalks, or do much for an overgrown tree but wait for it to fall over, of being able to restore a ride to full operating condition instead of just taping off the part that isn't quite safe enough anymore, of really repainting all of a ride platform or replacing the broken boards, of replacing the pay phone ripped out of the little receptacle or of taking the receptacle off the pole. This is the basic look of the park.

We passed a miniature golf course with, I believe, puddles on some of the greens. We passed an unnamed snack foods shack with damaged roof shingles and a menu sign written by hand. We passed the station for the Blue Streak roller coaster, a modest one with faded cyan and yellow roof, and a deeper blue launch platform, shabby but as neat as the survivors could make it. We passed the carousel building, the classic octagonal structure with a roof that looked slightly chewed up, with sun shades hanging a bit loosely, but bearing a sign that proudly reads ``WELCOME CHILDREN of all ages!'' We saw the outside of a dark ride, ``The Devil's Den''. And we found the little booth selling tickets, the anonymous ones you might buy on a roll from Staples, with a jar of gumballs offered for the infamous gum wall.

There was the Witch's Stew, which I don't remember ever seeing before --- a flat ride, with a long axis on the ends of which another pair of cars swing around; they're decorated and named Hansel and Gretel, with 50s-style figures of the fairy-tale characters on the outside. If I'm not mistaken [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger's brother once got horribly sick on this sort of ride at Coney Island. [Edit: I was mistaken. She saw a person not her brother get sick on this model ride, a Tempest, at Coney Island Amusement Park in Cincinatti. But her brother did get sick on a Breakdance ride at Coney Island in Brooklyn.] We didn't get on it. There was a Kiddieland, with its own little entrance --- a neat proscenium with, again, a classic 50s-style clown head that obviously in the past, possibly the long-ago past, would turn as it greeted kids. Also clearly it wasn't running, might never run, might not have run in --- who could imagine?

And this runs along a street that ends with traffic barricades, wooden horses, that show where the public street finishes and the park begins. Apparently at one point the park had no separation from the outside community, and since then they've managed to put this token of separation between the worlds without and within. It would slow a conscientious driver from barrelling down the street and crashing into the amusement park patrons; that could hopefully be all that was needed.

Inside the Kiddieland, past the picket fences, some standing upright, was a pair of figures, animals dressed in blue drum-major/bell-captain outfits, one labelled Connie Otter and one labelled Conrad. The otters had holes in their faces for kids to poke their heads through and be photographed. The holes were in the noses of both Connie and Conrad, with the otters' eyes and, for Connie, her mouth still visible. We didn't take photographs of ourselves in this; the effect of a kid's face taking the place of an otter's nose must be one of long-staying power. But it did give us our first clear hint of how to correctly pronounce Conneaut Lake.

Inside the Kiddieland we could see the back of the roller coaster, and see how little held together the tunnel that starts the ride --- the broken plywood boards, the roof bowed in by trees, the garbage bags filling in for gaps in the structure. The support shack with the boards unpainted or missing, with the weed tree grown through. The wooden planter with three broken sides spilling dirt out but left to be as it was. The mysterious bridge leading back towards --- we couldn't guess; it was fenced off by placing the remnants of three different fences, nailing them together at one point with a white board apparently salvaged from the roller coaster, with a tree-overgrown bridge leading into, apparently, the deep woods. It was posted ``No Trespassing'', but was more effectively guarded by being simply what it looked like. The kiddies' ``Little Dipper'' roller coaster (which we would learn was one of the oldest steel roller coasters still in existence; had it not been limited to people no more than, I think, 48 inches tall, we'd have ridden it and been delighted).

There's also a Live Pony ride, horses ambling their way along an actually fairly substantial path, maybe the length of a football field, and wide enough that the horses could drift back and forth if they wished. Between the carousel, the roller coasters, and now the live horses, [livejournal.com profile] bunny_hugger said that if they had been near this park when she was a girl they'd never have been able to get her out of there.

There's the main midway, the buildings that clearly used to be attractions, now lacking signs, or names, or attractions. Some had the remains of prizes, but no attendants. All were in front of mossy puddles on the concrete. Among the games, we would learn later on, was a Fascination parlor which hadn't opened in years, but which they were keeping intact rather than sell off to the remaining Fascination parlors which must cannibalize the dwindling population of Fascination games, a sign of how the people running the park hope for better things. Most of the Midway and its attractions were missing light bulbs, where there were still light poles. There was the start of a building, a facade that I thought might have been an entrance point that was incompletely torn down; it was scarred by fire and grown-over with moss. Beyond the lawn were ... houses And an open tractor-trailer trailer with ``TOOL SHED'' spray-painted on the back. It used to be that every town had an amusement park; most of them died in the Great Depression and World War II, and those that didn't died in the 70s as regional parks came to prominence. Conneaut Lake Park, somehow, failed to catch its chance to die, and has carried on.

At the far end was another snack stand, the Midway Kitchen, with a nicely blue-painted building and a menu board (and name) written in dry-erase marker on such a board. And past that was a Toboggan roller coaster, just as we saw at Lakemont Park, but it was long-since broken, standing but not operating, not giving much evidence that it had ever operated. According to the Roller Coaster Database, it was installed in 2002. The park had been vibrant enough to bring in new rides not a dozen years ago.

Past that were bikers, many, perhaps over a hundred of them, attending a concert. We would learn later that if you're a biker in the northwestern Pennsylvania area, going to Conneaut Lake Park in the early Sunday afternoon is just the thing to do. When we were there --- we ate at the Midway Kitchen, getting fried pierogies (which came up neat and quickly and were a common thing at Pennsylvania parks) and French fries (which took surprisingly long to make) --- we overheard some of this concert put on for the bikers. The emcee asked if the bikers liked the music of Journey. No, it wasn't a Journey cover band the park had. It was a band that does covers of both Journey and John Mellencamp.

This is, as far as the adjective can apply to an unreal land, a normal weekend day at Conneaut Lake Park.

Trivia: United States amusement parks in 1905 included at least four Dreamlands, five Luna Parks, two Manhattan Beaches, four White Cities, seventeen Electric Parks, five Sans Souci parks, four Wonderlands, and one Fairyland. Source: The Kid Of Coney Island: Fred Thompson and the Rise of American Amusements, Woody Register.

Currently Reading: The Visioneers: How A Group Of Elite Scientists Pursued Space Colonies, Nanotechnology, and a Limitless Future, W Patrick McCray.